How to Get Rid of Blackheads and Shrink Pores
- Adam Burling
- 12 minutes ago
- 16 min read
Getting rid of blackheads and minimizing the appearance of pores isn't about a single magic bullet. It’s a consistent routine that hinges on using the right topical treatments—like salicylic acid and retinoids—to exfoliate and keep follicles clear. When over-the-counter options aren't enough, professional guidance from a board-certified dermatologist can make all the difference.
The core idea is simple: keep your pores free of the excess oil and dead skin cells that build up and cause blackheads in the first place.
Your Guide to Clearer Skin From St. Louis Dermatologists
Dealing with stubborn blackheads and noticeable pores is one of the most common battles we see every day at Mid-County Dermatology. We get it. The frustration is real—you just want clear, smooth skin.
From our patients in Ladue and Clayton to those in Creve Coeur and Chesterfield, the desire for a reliable solution is universal. This guide is designed to cut through the noise and give you a straightforward, expert-backed plan to finally get the upper hand.
First Off, What Are Blackheads Anyway?
Before we jump into treatments, you have to know what you’re up against. Blackheads, or "open comedones" as we call them in the dermatology world, pop up when a hair follicle gets clogged with a mix of sebum (your skin's natural oil), dead skin cells, and bacteria.
When this plug is exposed to the air, it oxidizes and turns dark, creating that tell-tale black dot. This isn't just a teenage problem, either. Research shows that acne and blackheads can hang around well into adulthood, with a study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology finding that the condition can persist well into adult life. You can learn more about the science behind acne persistence if you're curious.
Here at Mid-County Dermatology, our board-certified St. Louis dermatologists, Dr. Feigenbaum and Dr. Gibstine, always stress one thing: blackheads are not a sign that your skin is dirty. They’re simply a result of natural skin processes that, with the right approach, can be managed very effectively.
Your Path to Clearer Skin
Managing blackheads and pores isn't about one miracle product; it's about a consistent, smart strategy. Think of it as a two-pronged attack that combines your daily efforts with targeted professional treatments when needed.
Daily At-Home Care: This is your foundation. It’s all about cleansing properly, using active ingredients that keep pores clear, and protecting your skin from things that can make matters worse.
Professional Treatments: When over-the-counter options just aren't cutting it, a St. Louis skin doctor can bring in the heavy hitters. These treatments accelerate your results and tackle the kind of stubborn congestion that at-home care can't touch.
As trusted St. Louis skin specialists, we believe in empowering our patients with knowledge. Understanding the 'why' behind your blackheads is the first real step toward achieving lasting clarity and feeling confident in your skin.
This guide is your roadmap. We’ll walk through the causes, detail effective at-home routines, and clarify when it’s time to call in a professional. Consider this your expert-backed plan to finally take back control of your skin.
To get started, let's look at the big picture. This table breaks down the most common concerns and compares what you can do at home versus the options available in a dermatology office.
What You Need to Know: Quick Guide to Managing Blackheads and Pores
Concern | Effective At-Home Ingredients | Professional Treatment Options |
---|---|---|
Clogged Pores & Blackheads | Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Retinoids (Retinol, Tretinoin) | Chemical Peels, HydraFacial, Professional Extractions |
Excess Oil (Sebum) | Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid, Clay Masks | Chemical Peels, Microneedling, Laser Treatments |
Enlarged Pores | Retinoids, Niacinamide, AHAs/BHAs | Microneedling, Laser Genesis, Fractional Lasers |
Uneven Skin Texture | Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Retinoids | Microdermabrasion, Chemical Peels, Laser Resurfacing |
This summary gives you a quick snapshot of the tools at your disposal. Whether you’re just starting to build a routine or looking for more advanced solutions, knowing your options is key to achieving the clear, smooth skin you're aiming for.
Understanding Why Blackheads and Pores Appear

Before you can really learn how to get rid of blackheads and make your pores less noticeable, you have to know what you’re up against. Many of our patients at Mid-County Dermatology come to us feeling frustrated, thinking these skin issues are a sign of poor hygiene. Let’s clear that up right now: blackheads are not dirt.
A blackhead, which we call an open comedone in the medical world, is just a hair follicle—a pore—that’s gotten clogged up with a mix of natural skin oil (sebum) and dead skin cells. The top of this plug is open to the air, which causes the contents to oxidize and turn dark. It’s a completely natural process, not a sign that you aren't washing your face enough.
Similarly, the size of your pores is mostly determined by genetics. You can't permanently shrink them, but you can absolutely make them look smaller and more refined by keeping them clean and supporting your skin’s natural elasticity. Getting to the root cause is always the first step toward the clear skin you deserve.
The Real Culprits Behind Clogged Pores
So, if it’s not about how often you wash your face, what really causes blackheads to form? Several factors can create the perfect storm for clogged pores, and these can vary for our patients from Ladue to Chesterfield.
The main driver is almost always excess sebum production. Your skin makes this oil to keep itself lubricated and protected, but sometimes, the glands go into overdrive. This overproduction is often triggered by a few key things:
Hormonal Fluctuations: Androgens, a group of hormones, can signal your oil glands to work harder. This is why blackheads are so common during puberty, menstruation, and even periods of high stress.
Genetics: Your DNA has a lot to say about your skin type and pore size. If your parents dealt with oily skin or prominent pores, chances are you might, too.
Improper Skincare: Using harsh, stripping cleansers can ironically make your skin produce even more oil to compensate. On top of that, heavy, pore-clogging (comedogenic) makeup and moisturizers can trap oil and dead skin cells, creating a direct path to blackheads.
At Mid-County Dermatology, our St. Louis skin specialists, Dr. Feigenbaum and Dr. Gibstine, often explain it like this: "Think of your pore as a tiny tube. When it produces too much oil and doesn't shed skin cells efficiently, you get a traffic jam. Our goal is to manage the traffic, not just clear the occasional backup."
How Skin Type and Lifestyle Play a Role
While genetics and hormones set the stage, your specific skin type and daily habits also have a huge impact. People with oily or combination skin are naturally more prone to blackheads simply because their oil glands are more active, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin).
Managing this requires a dedicated game plan. For anyone struggling with that constant shine, we've put together a complete resource on how to properly care for your skin type. You can learn more by reading our [St. Louis dermatologist's guide to managing oily skin](https://www.midcountyderm.com/post/how-to-manage-oily-skin-a-st-louis-dermatologist-s-guide), which offers practical tips tailored for our local climate.
Your lifestyle can also tip the scales. Factors like the high humidity in a St. Louis summer, frequent sweating from workouts, or even just touching your face can transfer oils and bacteria, contributing to clogs. Your best defense is a consistent, gentle skincare routine that helps maintain balance and prevent the buildup that leads to blackheads in the first place.
Building an Effective At-Home Skincare Routine
Consistency is everything when it comes to managing blackheads and minimizing pores. While professional treatments give you a powerful head start, it’s your daily at-home skincare that does the real heavy lifting. This is your frontline defense, preventing new clogs from forming and maintaining that clear, smooth skin you've worked so hard for.
An effective routine isn't about crowding your counter with a dozen different products; it’s about being strategic. We focus on choosing a few key, evidence-based ingredients and, most importantly, using them correctly. From Frontenac to Creve Coeur, we guide our patients at Mid-County Dermatology on how to build simple yet powerful routines that deliver real, lasting results.
The Power Players Your Skin Needs
The world of skincare ingredients can feel overwhelming, but for tackling blackheads and pores, a few standouts are proven game-changers. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends many of these for managing acne and clogged pores.
Salicylic Acid (BHA): Think of this as your pore-clearing MVP. As a beta-hydroxy acid, it's oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deep inside your pores to dissolve the mix of sebum and dead skin cells that causes blackheads.
Glycolic Acid (AHA): This alpha-hydroxy acid works its magic on the skin's surface. It dissolves the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together, revealing brighter skin and stopping those cells from clogging pores in the first place.
Niacinamide: A form of vitamin B3, this ingredient is a true multitasker. It helps regulate your skin’s oil production, strengthens the skin barrier, and can visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores over time.
Retinoids: This is the gold standard for promoting healthy cell turnover. Retinoids encourage your skin to shed old cells and generate new ones more efficiently—a critical process for stopping clogs before they even begin.
The demand for clear skin solutions is massive. The global acne treatment market was valued at approximately USD 11 billion in 2022, according to Grand View Research, and is projected to continue growing. This growth is fueled by innovations in the very ingredients we rely on to keep pores clear.
Your Morning Routine for Pore Protection
Your morning routine is all about gentle cleansing and shielding your skin from the day ahead. It's about setting your skin up for success.
Cleanse: Start with a mild, non-stripping cleanser. You're not trying to scrub your skin raw; you just want to wash away any oil and impurities that have accumulated overnight.
Treat: Consider a targeted serum. This is the perfect time to apply niacinamide, which can help keep oil production in check throughout the day—a huge plus, especially during humid St. Louis summers.
Moisturize: Yes, even oily skin needs hydration! A lightweight, oil-free moisturizer keeps your skin balanced without clogging pores. Look for the word "non-comedogenic" on the label; it’s your assurance that the product is formulated specifically not to block pores.
Protect: The non-negotiable final step is sunscreen. Sun exposure damages collagen, which can make pores appear larger over time. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 is your best defense, every single day.
Your Evening Routine for Deep Cleaning and Repair
Nighttime is when your skin goes into repair mode. This makes it the ideal time to bring out the more powerful, active ingredients that tackle blackheads head-on.
Double Cleanse: If you wear makeup or sunscreen (and you should be!), start with an oil-based cleanser to melt it all away. Follow that with your regular gentle cleanser. This two-step process ensures your pores are completely clean and prepped for treatment.
Exfoliate (2-3 Times a Week): Don’t use them at the same time, but alternate between a salicylic acid (BHA) and a glycolic acid (AHA) treatment on different nights. This strategy gives you the best of both worlds—deep pore cleaning and surface exfoliation—without overwhelming your skin.
Apply a Retinoid: After cleansing, apply your retinoid. Using this powerful ingredient is a marathon, not a sprint. We always advise patients to start with a low concentration just a few nights a week, then gradually increase the frequency as their skin adapts. For a deeper dive, check out our [expert guide on retinols available in St. Louis](https://www.midcountyderm.com/post/retinols-stlouis).
"Many patients believe scrubbing harder will get rid of blackheads, but this often backfires, causing irritation and more oil production. The key is gentle, consistent use of the right active ingredients that work with your skin’s natural processes, not against them." - Dr. Feigenbaum, St. Louis Dermatologist at Mid-County Dermatology.
Myth Busting Common Home Remedies
It’s tempting to fall for the quick-fix promises you see online, but some of the most popular at-home "hacks" can do more harm than good.
Myth: Pore Strips Cure Blackheads. Fact: They offer a moment of gross satisfaction, but they mostly just rip out the very top of the blackhead along with some healthy skin cells. They don’t address the root cause, so the blackheads will be back in no time.
Myth: Harsh Scrubs Deep Clean Pores. Fact: Abrasive scrubs with large, jagged particles (like crushed shells) can create micro-tears in the skin. This leads to inflammation and a compromised skin barrier, making problems worse.
Myth: Squeezing Blackheads Is a Quick Fix. Fact: Please, don't. Squeezing can easily push bacteria deeper into the pore, turning a simple blackhead into an angry, inflamed pimple. Worse, it can lead to permanent scarring or stretched-out pores.
Building a solid, consistent at-home routine is your most powerful tool. By focusing on these core ingredients and proven steps, you can take meaningful control over blackheads and pores for healthier, clearer skin.
When to See a St. Louis Skin Specialist
A consistent at-home routine is your best defense, but sometimes it just doesn't cut it. If you’ve been diligently using the right ingredients and still see stubborn blackheads, deep congestion, or pores that seem to be getting bigger, it might be time to call in the professionals.
This is where a board-certified St. Louis dermatologist can make a huge difference.
Here at Mid-County Dermatology, we see patients from Clayton to Chesterfield who feel like they’ve hit a wall. They're doing everything right, but their skin needs a more powerful, targeted approach to finally clear up. This is a completely normal part of the skincare journey.
Deciding to see a specialist isn’t a sign of failure; it's a strategic move to get the skin you want. Dr. Feigenbaum and Dr. Gibstine can deliver a level of care and achieve results that are simply not possible with over-the-counter products alone.
Professional Extractions The Right Way
One of the biggest benefits of visiting a St. Louis skin specialist is getting access to safe, sterile, and truly effective professional extractions. While squeezing blackheads at home often leads to inflammation, scarring, or even infection, a dermatologist or trained esthetician uses specialized tools and techniques to clear out clogged pores without damaging your skin.
This isn’t just about removing the blackheads you can see; it's about giving your skin a completely clean slate. By thoroughly clearing out those deep, stubborn comedones, professional extractions help your at-home products penetrate better, making your entire routine more effective.
Advanced Treatments for Lasting Results
Beyond extractions, a St. Louis dermatology practice like ours offers a suite of advanced procedures designed to tackle blackheads and pores at the source. These treatments go far beyond what you can do at home, delivering dramatic and long-lasting improvements in your skin’s texture and clarity.
For a more intensive approach to persistent blackheads or enlarged pores, a dermatologist might recommend professional chemical peels. These treatments use medical-grade acids to deeply exfoliate, dissolve pore-clogging debris, and stimulate collagen production. More collagen helps tighten and firm the skin around the pores, making them appear much smaller. The best part? Peels can be customized to your exact skin type and concerns.
"Professional treatments act as a 'reset' button for your skin. They address underlying issues like slow cell turnover and deep-seated oil plugs, which allows a good at-home routine to become truly effective for long-term maintenance." – Dr. Connie Gibstine, Mid-County Dermatology
Tailored In-Office Procedures
Every person's skin is unique, which is why a one-on-one consultation is so important. At our clinic serving Ladue, Creve Coeur, and the greater St. Louis area, we have several highly effective treatments we might recommend based on what your skin needs:
HydraFacial: This is a fan favorite for a reason. It's a multi-step treatment that cleanses, exfoliates, painlessly extracts impurities, and infuses the skin with hydration all at once. It’s fantastic for dislodging blackheads while leaving you with an incredible glow.
Targeted Laser Therapies: Certain lasers can help reduce the appearance of pores and control oil production by targeting the sebaceous glands. They also boost collagen, leading to firmer skin and a more refined texture over time.
Microneedling: This procedure creates tiny micro-injuries in the skin, kicking its natural healing process into high gear. Your skin starts producing new collagen and elastin, which results in smoother skin and a noticeable reduction in the appearance of large pores.
For those dealing with more persistent or inflammatory acne alongside blackheads, a more intensive approach might be necessary. Our St. Louis Accutane guide provides more information on treatment options for more severe cases.
When it comes to professional treatments, it helps to see how they stack up against each other. Here's a quick comparison of some of the top in-office options we recommend for tackling blackheads and enlarged pores.
Comparing Professional Dermatology Treatments
Treatment | Best For | Expected Results | Typical Downtime |
---|---|---|---|
Professional Extractions | Immediate removal of existing blackheads and deep comedones. | Instantly clearer pores, reduced congestion, and a smoother skin surface. | Minimal; slight redness for a few hours. |
HydraFacial | Gentle exfoliation, extraction, and hydration for all skin types. | Improved texture, reduced blackheads, and a radiant glow. | None. |
Chemical Peels | Stubborn blackheads, enlarged pores, and uneven skin texture. | Smoother, brighter skin with visibly smaller pores over a series of treatments. | Varies from 0-7 days, depending on peel strength. |
Laser Therapy | Reducing pore size and controlling excess oil production long-term. | Gradual improvement in skin texture and pore size; reduced oiliness. | Minimal; some redness for 1-2 days. |
Microneedling | Enlarged pores, acne scarring, and overall skin rejuvenation. | Firmer skin, reduced pore appearance, and improved texture after a few sessions. | 1-3 days of redness and mild swelling. |
This table gives you a general idea, but the best way to know what's right for you is to have a conversation with a dermatologist who can assess your specific skin concerns.
The key ingredients in your home routine play a huge role, too. The infographic below breaks down some of the most effective ones, comparing what they do and how often you should use them.

This visual guide highlights how each ingredient has a specific job, from salicylic acid’s deep pore cleaning to glycolic acid’s surface-level refining. Deciding to see a dermatologist means getting an expert partner who can help you build a complete plan, combining the best of at-home care with the targeted power of professional treatments.
Long-Term Strategies for Maintaining Clear Skin

Getting your skin clear is a huge win, but the real challenge? Keeping it that way. Long-term success with blackheads and pore management isn't about a single product; it's about building smart, sustainable habits that support your skin from the inside out.
At Mid-County Dermatology, this is a core part of how we coach our patients. We help you understand how daily choices—from what you eat to the makeup you use—are just as critical as your treatment products. It’s a holistic approach, and it’s what keeps your pores looking refined for the long haul.
Lifestyle Habits That Support Clear Skin
You’ve probably heard it before, but your skin truly is a mirror of your overall health. Simple, consistent lifestyle tweaks can make a world of difference in managing oil production and preventing the debris that leads to blackheads.
Think of it this way: your skincare routine is for managing current problems, but a healthy lifestyle is what helps prevent them from starting in the first place.
Here are a few key areas we always tell our patients to focus on:
Hydration is Non-Negotiable: Staying well-hydrated helps your skin function at its best. It can help balance oil production and keep things flushed out.
A Skin-Friendly Diet: While food isn’t the only cause of blackheads, high-glycemic foods (think sugar and refined carbs) are linked to an uptick in sebum production. On the flip side, antioxidant-rich foods like fruits and veggies help calm inflammation.
Simple Hygiene Wins: Small things add up. Change your pillowcases at least once a week to avoid transferring oil and bacteria. And don't forget to wipe down your phone screen regularly—it’s a magnet for grime.
The Impact of Makeup and Product Choices
What you put on your face every day is just as important as the treatments you use at night. Choosing the right products is a cornerstone of any long-term clear-skin strategy.
The magic word to look for is "non-comedogenic." This simply means the product was formulated specifically not to clog pores. That's a must for anyone prone to blackheads. Heavy, oil-based foundations are a common culprit, trapping sweat and sebum and creating the perfect storm for new comedones.
"A common mistake we see is patients investing in excellent treatment serums but then using a heavy, pore-clogging foundation every day. Your makeup should work with your skincare, not against it. Think of it as the final, protective step in your routine." - Dr. Feigenbaum, Mid-County Dermatology
Another game-changing habit is cleaning your makeup brushes and sponges. These tools are breeding grounds for bacteria, which you’re just painting back onto your face with every application. Give them a good wash at least once a week. It makes a bigger difference than you think.
Adapting Your Routine to St. Louis Seasons
Living in St. Louis means dealing with some pretty dramatic weather shifts—sticky, humid summers and bone-dry, cold winters. Your skin feels it, and your routine needs to adapt accordingly.
In the humid summer months around Clayton or Frontenac, you’ll likely need to switch to a lighter, gel-based moisturizer. This is also a great time to lean on oil-controlling ingredients. Niacinamide, for example, is fantastic for regulating sebum. If you want to dive deeper, check out our [complete guide to the benefits of niacinamide for your skin](https://www.midcountyderm.com/post/niacinamide-for-skin-complete-benefits-guide-2025-what-dermatologists-want-you-to-know).
Come winter, the cold, dry air can wreak havoc, stripping your skin of moisture and sometimes causing it to overproduce oil to compensate. During these months, you might want to dial back the exfoliation a bit and bring in a more hydrating moisturizer—still non-comedogenic, of course—to protect your skin barrier. The secret to year-round clarity is learning to listen to your skin and give it what it needs.
Key Takeaways
Understand the Cause: Blackheads are clogged pores (open comedones) where oil and skin cells have oxidized, not dirt. Pore size is genetic, but appearance can be minimized.
Build a Smart Routine: Use key ingredients like Salicylic Acid (for deep cleaning), Glycolic Acid (for surface exfoliation), and Retinoids (for cell turnover). Always use a non-comedogenic moisturizer and daily SPF 30+.
Avoid Common Mistakes: Don't use harsh scrubs, pore strips, or squeeze blackheads, as these can cause irritation, damage, and scarring.
Know When to See a Pro: If at-home care isn't enough after 2-3 months, a board-certified dermatologist can offer powerful treatments like professional extractions, chemical peels, and laser therapy for faster, more dramatic results.
Maintain with Lifestyle: Long-term clear skin is supported by a healthy diet, proper hydration, good hygiene (like cleaning makeup brushes), and using non-comedogenic makeup.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
We get a ton of questions about blackheads and pores from our patients all over the St. Louis area, from Ladue to Chesterfield. It’s an incredibly common concern. A study of search trends found that ‘how to get rid of blackheads’ gets nearly 10,000 monthly searches in the UK alone, showing how universal this struggle is. You can [read more about these skincare search trends](https://professionalbeauty.co.uk/blackheads-revealed-as-most-googled-skincare-concern) to see just how many people are looking for real solutions.
What causes blackheads?
Blackheads are caused when a hair follicle becomes clogged with excess sebum (skin oil) and dead skin cells. This plug is exposed to the air, causing it to oxidize and turn dark. The primary triggers for this process are hormonal fluctuations, genetics, and using pore-clogging (comedogenic) skincare or makeup products. They are not a sign of being "dirty."
What is the difference between a blackhead and a pimple?
While both start as a clogged pore, a blackhead is an "open comedone," meaning the pore is open to the air, which oxidizes the contents and turns them dark. A pimple forms when a pore is closed off from the air ("closed comedone" or whitehead), trapping bacteria inside. The body's immune response to this bacteria causes the inflammation, redness, and pus associated with a pimple.
Can you permanently shrink your pores?
No, you can’t permanently change your genetic pore size. However, you can make them appear smaller. You can achieve this by keeping them clear of debris with ingredients like salicylic acid and retinoids, and by stimulating collagen with professional treatments like microneedling or laser therapy. Firmer skin around the pore helps tighten its appearance.
Are pore strips bad for your skin?
As St. Louis dermatologists, we generally advise against them. Pore strips aggressively rip out the top of the blackhead but can also remove healthy skin cells and fine hairs, leading to irritation and a damaged skin barrier. They don't address the root cause, so the pore will simply fill back up. A gentle chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid is a much safer and more effective long-term solution.
Ready to build a plan that gets you the clear skin you deserve? The board-certified St. Louis dermatologists at Mid-County Dermatology are here to help patients in Clayton, Creve Coeur, Frontenac, and beyond. Schedule your consultation today to get expert guidance on the right treatments for your unique skin.
[Book Your Appointment with Mid-County Dermatology](https://www.midcountyderm.com)
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